Up and Cumin

PAUL STAMMERS is on top of the world after sampling the fragrant delights of Nepalese food.

NEPAL. A country famed for its magnificent but treacherous, rugged peaks and its warriors, the Gurkhas.

You might assume the cuisine from these parts is somewhat ... er, straightforward, for folk living near ‘the rooftop of the world’. Gristle laced with chillis, perhaps?

Wrong. Nepalese food, at least going by the dishes served at the Everest, is on the fragrant, rather than throat-scorching, side, with garlic, ginger, cumin and cardomom being favourite spices.

It may not seem startlingly different from the (mostly Bengali-run) curryhouses in places such as Cowley Road, but clearly there’s a market for it, as the Everest is doing well after less than two months in business.

The takeaway trade is being built up slowly (I imagine the students will keep this place on its toes when they grace us with their presence in a few weeks’ time) but on Friday and Saturday evenings the pub – for indeed it still is the Donnington Arms, at least on one side of the building – can be busy with diners.

WHAT’S IT LIKE THEN?

Prepare yourself for a shock – there are panoramas of the Himalayas on the walls.

So far, a bit predictable, if charming. Likewise with the picture of Buddha (he was born in Nepal).

And when we visited, the soft background music pandered to a hippy element – but it wasn’t the esoteric notes of the ancient East that we were hearing. More New York’s East side, circa 1969 – overblown flutes and dancing keyboard stabs. I liked it.

The service seemed friendly and efficient and the manager, Prakash, was keen to make us feel welcome.

WHAT DID YOU ORDER?

Naturally, a malty Gurkha beer, which came in a sturdy 660ml bottle, to slake my thirst.

Amy opted for a Chilean red, one of several wines that were offered by the glass.

We enjoyed the chutneys and pickles that came with our starters more than we’d expected as they had a bite to them, but the momo dumplings – three of which were lamb-based, the other vegetarian – were even better, the ginger giving the neat parcels plenty of zing.

The menu featured more veggie dishes than at some curryhouses and there were also a few noodle-based creations as well as a three-course set menu for £11.45 to tempt the bargain-hunters.

Seeking something of a change from the old routine, I asked for the green jackfruit with lemon rice, while my other half ordered the lamb with courgettes (which I’d heard were a speciality).

I also wanted to see what the bitter gourd would taste like.

This knobbly vegetable arrived sliced with onions and peppers and had a chargrilled tang; it was refreshingly tart rather than bitter.

My jackfruit (available as either a main or side dish) was fleshy like a squash, but fibrous like an artichoke; it was certainly mild, which I didn’t object to, partly as my lemon rice had a strong smoky element to it.

Amy, however, thought her lamb dish was on the bland side, considering its reputation.

The portions didn’t look huge, but proved filling and weren’t as oily as many curries.

So we decided to share a dessert of Nepalese rice pudding, which came with strawberries, chopped nuts and a hint of cinnamon.

VERDICT: The food is wholesome, the service efficient and the prices reasonable (about £6-£7 for a main, not including rice). Worth a trek, don’t you think?